The Holy Sepulcher and Shabbat – Israel Day 4!

One of the realities of an extraordinary journey like this is the rate at which your mind and heart can absorb all that you see, hear and experience. It is all quite overwhelming!

And this is just day 4. My publishing it to all of you was delayed simply by my need to rest. Maybe God knew something when He gave Commandment number four.

Now it is Sunday morning as I share the events of Friday, day 4. We followed the path of the Via Dolorosa – the Way of Suffering – the path that Jesus walked, carrying his cross, on the way to his execution. This is the route that is remembered by the “Stations of the Cross.” Many churches have plaques or drawings that commemorate the 14 traditional places that Jesus stopped or had encounters on this journey to his crucifixion.

In the Old City, each stop is either a mark along a wall, a small room with an altar or a sign, or a church. Five of the stations are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

There are tours in which Christian are led along this route, though many Christians walk it on their own. It is possible to follow the signs through the streets of Jerusalem, though it is occasionally a bit tricky. I even saw one man following the route, carrying a large cross on his shoulder. Actually I saw him twice: the first time with TWO crosses on his shoulder, the second time with just one.

Here is a list of the 14 stations:

1.       Jesus is condemned to death.

2.       Jesus is given and carries the cross.

3.       Jesus falls the first time.

4.       Jesus meets his mother.

5.       Simon is made to bear the cross.

6.       Veronica wipes the face of Jesus.

7.       Jesus falls a second time.

8.       Jesus meets the women of Jerusalem.

9.       Jesus falls the third time.

10.     Jesus is stripped of his garments.

11.     Jesus is nailed to the cross.

12.     Jesus dies on the cross.

13.     Jesus is taken down from the cross.

14.     Jesus is taken to the Sepulchre (a place of burial).

 

I should note that not all of these have a biblical source, nor is the actual spot certain, and even parts of the walk are now 30 feet above where they were originally, from centuries of destruction and rebuilding. But it is a route taken by many to remind them in a physical and demonstrable way, what Jesus suffered.

The route ends in the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. This was one of several churches built by Helena, the mother of Constantine, in the fourth century. It is believed by many (see my blog from tomorrow for a different site) to be the site of his crucifixion (Golgotha), burial and resurrection. To say this church is enormous would be understatement. You just cannot imagine its size or scope in every dimension.

 

It is currently under the authority of the Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox and Oriental Orthodox churches, and for nearly a century it has been mandated that nothing is to be moved or changed without the agreement of all, plus, of course, local authorities. Even a ladder which was leaning against an outside window when the agreement was reached is still in place!

This picture shows the main entrance doors to this church. It faces a large plaza. Look up at the high window on the right: there’s the ladder, since 1929. It is not permitted to be moved!

 

Inside the church is filled with silver, gold and marble everywhere, and black robed monks move about endlessly, at times conducting worship services. 

 

 

 

This is a picture I took of an elaborate ceremony around a marble slab on the ground which is believed to be the piece of rock on which Jesus’ body was laid immediately after being removed from the cross. Fifty yards from here is a tall limestone rock with what looks like red iron ore present. This is said to be the blood of Jesus.

Some one hundred feet in another direction is a small grotto with burial caves carved out of the limestone.

 

This is where they believe Jesus was buried. It is dark inside and photography is exceedingly difficult, though allowed. Many Christians from around the world come here, and acts of devotion, such as kissing the slab that the monks stood around (picture above), and crawling on one’s knees, are common.

 

 

 

I realize as I write these words, and reflect on the pictures I took, that it is quite impossible to communicate the power, enormity, extent and sense of history of a place like this. I went and read the Wikipedia entry on the church. It is scholarly, historical and a good summary. And it pales next to being here.

You just need to come for yourself! It is stunning.

We wrapped up the day with a walk through the streets of the Old City at night. 

 

 

 

 

 It is Friday, Shabbat. Nearly everything is closed, but there is great excitement at the Western Wall, where thousands of Jews (and Christians) walk to celebrate the Sabbath.

 

 

On this night there is a constant flow of worshippers into and out of the area, every kind of traditional dress imaginable, and velvet covered tables with hundreds of prayer books all over the plaza near the wall.

Because it is Shabbat, no work is allowed, and so things like taking pictures on the plaza or near the wall are prohibited. There is one high balcony behind the plaza where no one will say anything, and that’s where I shot this photograph. Had I done so down on the plaza, I would have been asked immediately to put my camera away and observe the rest God that had commanded for this day.

 

To us as modern Americans this seems almost harsh: we are free to do what we want, when we want, without religious people scolding us and restricting our freedom.

 

But perhaps God had a better idea when He told us to really rest each week, and set aside a day to simply enjoy prayer, family, friends, hospitality, and to worship Him with thanksgiving.

-Pastor George